Articles
Wine and pepper
Like salt, pepper has a pronounced effect on wine, often making reds taste softer and lusher than they otherwise would. Unlike salt though, you also find peppery flavours in wines such as Northern Rhône Syrah and Austrian Grüner Veltliner.
The problem about finding the same flavour in a food and a wine is that the more dominant flavour in the food tends to knock out the same characteristic in the wine. (Other examples are orange Muscat which won’t stand up to an orange-flavoured dessert or an evolved Pinot Noir whose mushroomy notes become barely perceptible if partnered with cooked mushrooms.)
So what do you drink when pepper is the point of the dish? Here are my suggestions, paired with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s recipes in the Guardian today.
Salt and Pepper Squid
There’s not just black pepper in this dish but Szechuan pepper and chilli as well which makes it hot. Winewise you could go two ways - a zesty unoaked Sauvignon Blanc which would provide a lemony lift to the combination or a crisp, limey Australian Riesling which I think would be my preferred match. (Note the pairing will change if you add a squeeze of lemon. Try the wine first and proceed with caution! ) I’d also like a cold Kölsch or lager with this.
Goats' cheese marinated in seasoned olive oil
Sauvignon Blanc is always the first port of call with goats’ cheese but the flavours in the olive oil - garlic, lemon zest, black and pink peppercorns and chilli again - mean only a super-charged Sauvignon will do. Pick one that has powerful lemon zest notes of its own such as a south Australian Sauvignon Blanc or a Chilean one. (Yes, I know I said don't replicate the flavours of the food in the wine but I just don't think a herbaceous Sauvignon will work here.)
Steak in Green Peppercorn Sauce
Green peppercorns used to be a common basis for steak sauces like this. It also contains cream and brandy, an immensely wine-friendly partnership. I think I’d be looking for a Syrah or Shiraz but one without obvious peppery notes of its own, maybe in combination with its other habitual southern French bedfellows, Grenache and Mourvèdre. So a Languedoc red such as Faugères would be perfect. Or a Western Australian Shiraz. (Note: all this pepper will accentuate the sensation of ‘hotness’ in any accompanying wine so watch the alcohol!)
Which wines - or beers - pair best with cooked cheese?
Cheese and wine is a notorious minefield but is it any easier when the cheese is cooked? See my suggestions to match Mark Hix's delicious recipes in the Independent today:
Angel hair fried halloumi
Mark sees these as a deep fried snack with drinks or possibly served with pickled peppers as a first course - a slightly tougher proposition wine-wise with which I think you’d need a sharp white like a Greek Assyrtiko. Otherwise fizz is always good with deep-fried nibbles. I’m not thinking Champagne at this time of year, more an inexpensive sparkler. Cava would be fine.
Sprouting broccoli with garlic fondue
The broccoli won’t cause you any problems here - the key element to the dish is the fondue which is traditionally accompanied by a very dry white wine like a Swiss Chasselas. This is pretty hard to find so I’d go for something like a Muscadet or a very dry, simple country white vin de pays from southern France based on one of those neutral grape varieties like white Grenache or Terret. Avoid reds and don’t even think of serving iced water which makes fondue indigestible.
Piccata of veal with taleggio and spinach
An Italian trat classic with tomatoes, rich cheese and spinach. The latter two components tend to make it hard for reds though oddly I think the whole dish will get by thanks to the tomato. A case for a classic Chianti: its dryness and acidity will cut through the richness of the cheese and deal with the slight bitterness of the spinach. Equally good would be a smooth dry Italian white like a Verdicchio, dry Orvieto or even a decent Soave.
Chicory salad with gorgonzola and walnuts
A tricky dish with blue cheese and a sweet-sour dressing based on cider vinegar and honey that would be much better with a good artisanal cider (not too dry) or a beer than with wine. I’d go for something like a rich amber ale or Belgian Saison-style beer
Buck rabbit
Another beer-friendly dish given a kick with Worcestershire sauce and mustard. It’s made with Guinness so you might think it a bit wasteful to drink anything else. Personally I think a classic British ale like Timothy Taylor Landlord would work better so save the Guinness for a cracking onion gravy or beef stew.
A match for pan-fried steak in a creamy mustard sauce
Could you make a suggestion for a pan-fried flank steak with a mustard/cream sauce consisting of shallots, white wine, chicken stock, cream, and Dijon mustard?
You’ve got two things to consider here - the steak which suggests a red wine and the sauce which is creamy and also contains mustard which needs a wine with some matching acidity.
Given that it’s a classic Burgundian sauce I’d go for a fairly youthful, fruity red burgundy though other light to medium weight pinot noirs from New Zealand or California, for example, would match well too. Basically you're looking for a third dimension here - some bright, berry flavours which will complement the lightly caramelised flavours of the steak and contrast with the richness of the cream.
Image credit: cottonbro studio
RSSLatest post
A Bastille Day LunchMost popular
.jpg)
9 great wine pairings for duck (updated)
My latest book
How to Drink without DrinkingNews and views
.jpg)
Fine Wine and Fast Food
About Fiona
About Matching Food & Wine
Work with me
